Post by tiamat on Feb 26, 2012 14:32:50 GMT -5
>here it is, in all it's half-painted but completely built glory. Wazdakka asked what this thing was made of when i sent him a pic, and i answered, honestly, it's 10% bitz and 90% trash. literally, its true! see what dumpster-diving can do for you?
so, the basic structure: the curved shape of the chainblade comes from a door-divider thingy from an old refrigerator my repair guy had out in his burn pile at his farm. i cut it to the shape i wanted (the skinny bit at the back end) with a dremel tool and a lot of patience. the bulk on both sides of that are foamcore board, and the blade housing also has a piece inserted into it - that'll make sense later.
the cylindrical bitz - the arm socket and the main exhaust tank - are made of 1" cuts on PVC pipe i rescued from the trash pile when we were doing some remodelling at Domino's a couple years back. the ends are capped with cardstock circles, and the banding is just strips of cardstock glued on with elmers. i'll get to rivets later.
exhaust pipes - fun and easy, courtesy of Waz's wacky orky brain! just cuts of ballpoint pen tubes (i got 2 20-packs at Dollar General for $2) with the open ends sliced into spiky shapes with an xacto knife. once they had the shape i wanted, i took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent some of the points outward. i use this technique on pretty much every ork vehicle in my collection - scratch-built or not. i also use ballpoint tubes for iron jaws and random plates of curved armor on the boyz. i'm forever in debt to the beige ork for the tip.
the chainblade! remember i said theres an insert of foamcore in the middle of the housing? well, the fridge bit is basically a tall, upside down, hard plastic, u-shape, and the 1/4" foam fit perfectly. the teeth are simply cuts of old credit cards, debit cards, gift cards, etc. they're pointy on both ends, so i covered the shorter point with superglue and just stabbed them into the foam. once they were hardened i covered the glued foam with elmers so i could spray paint without too much dissolve. the gear-type things (rounds between the blades) are 1/8" cuts of...wait for it...q-tip sticks! fun!
armor plates: once the basic structure was built for everything, i started cutting out pieces of cardstock and credit card plastic for all the plates, cut and arranged puzzle-fashion. there's a small amount of space inbetween each plate, and the thicknesses vary. i also made a new modelling discovery here. on cardstock plates, i went a little overboard on the elmers glue, soaking a plate or two. in order to keep them from peeling back from the plastic, i was using the end of a paintbrush to press them down. the moisted cardstock kept the indents from the brush, and viola! instant ball-peen hammer dents! neat little chance discovery, i thought.
Da Blaza Kannon: a LONG time ago (VA), i spent ten bucks online for a chemical factory kit from Pegasus Models (i think). the tubes, pipes, spherical tank, and turn-wheel all come from that kit, as well as the gear-shaped joint that plugs into the stompa and most of the model's other wheels. the holey barrel and the aft end (with armor plates and rivets on it) are both made of baked sculpey. the barrel has cardstock with crappy (orky) holes cut in it glued on, and the flame nozzle is another bit of BP tube. the piping for the pilot light nozzle are q-tip sticks again, and the pilot tip itself is a bit from my bit box, which bring us to...
random bitz! the joy of orky technology is that even if it doesn't look like it'll work/function, they believe it will, so somehow it does! i pretty much stripped down the original close combat arm for any and all useable bits - the radiator, the twin shootaz, the 2 spinny blades, more exhausts, all the pistons and cables, and all the hex-head nuts and bolts i could find. plus the bigger rivets. the little headlight at the front of the chain assembly is off one of Ben's broken motorcycle toys, and the "elbow" is from the grabba klaw from the battlewagon kit. the tank tread belt that runs the chainblade is a cheap toy from the dollar store.
and finally, the glyphs and rivets. the glyphs are just cut and trimmed bits of credit card plastic with the symbols carefully cut out of the same, with some holes, chips, and dings modelled on with an xacto blade. rivets, well those sucked. there's prolly around 100 or so on this thing. some are from various ork kits, carefully sliced off. but most are made of green stuff. i made several long and very skinny snakes of it, and once they were fully dried/hardened (several days later), i just cut very thin slices off them with my knife. gluing them on was a big pain in the ass, but what i did was put several drops of superglue around each armor plate the picked up each individual rivet with the tip of a fresh xacto blade and carefully set each onto the drops of glue. i did one plate at a time to prevent the glue from drying up before i could get to it.
tutorial ends, please feel free to ask questions i didn't cover.<
so, the basic structure: the curved shape of the chainblade comes from a door-divider thingy from an old refrigerator my repair guy had out in his burn pile at his farm. i cut it to the shape i wanted (the skinny bit at the back end) with a dremel tool and a lot of patience. the bulk on both sides of that are foamcore board, and the blade housing also has a piece inserted into it - that'll make sense later.
the cylindrical bitz - the arm socket and the main exhaust tank - are made of 1" cuts on PVC pipe i rescued from the trash pile when we were doing some remodelling at Domino's a couple years back. the ends are capped with cardstock circles, and the banding is just strips of cardstock glued on with elmers. i'll get to rivets later.
exhaust pipes - fun and easy, courtesy of Waz's wacky orky brain! just cuts of ballpoint pen tubes (i got 2 20-packs at Dollar General for $2) with the open ends sliced into spiky shapes with an xacto knife. once they had the shape i wanted, i took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent some of the points outward. i use this technique on pretty much every ork vehicle in my collection - scratch-built or not. i also use ballpoint tubes for iron jaws and random plates of curved armor on the boyz. i'm forever in debt to the beige ork for the tip.
the chainblade! remember i said theres an insert of foamcore in the middle of the housing? well, the fridge bit is basically a tall, upside down, hard plastic, u-shape, and the 1/4" foam fit perfectly. the teeth are simply cuts of old credit cards, debit cards, gift cards, etc. they're pointy on both ends, so i covered the shorter point with superglue and just stabbed them into the foam. once they were hardened i covered the glued foam with elmers so i could spray paint without too much dissolve. the gear-type things (rounds between the blades) are 1/8" cuts of...wait for it...q-tip sticks! fun!
armor plates: once the basic structure was built for everything, i started cutting out pieces of cardstock and credit card plastic for all the plates, cut and arranged puzzle-fashion. there's a small amount of space inbetween each plate, and the thicknesses vary. i also made a new modelling discovery here. on cardstock plates, i went a little overboard on the elmers glue, soaking a plate or two. in order to keep them from peeling back from the plastic, i was using the end of a paintbrush to press them down. the moisted cardstock kept the indents from the brush, and viola! instant ball-peen hammer dents! neat little chance discovery, i thought.
Da Blaza Kannon: a LONG time ago (VA), i spent ten bucks online for a chemical factory kit from Pegasus Models (i think). the tubes, pipes, spherical tank, and turn-wheel all come from that kit, as well as the gear-shaped joint that plugs into the stompa and most of the model's other wheels. the holey barrel and the aft end (with armor plates and rivets on it) are both made of baked sculpey. the barrel has cardstock with crappy (orky) holes cut in it glued on, and the flame nozzle is another bit of BP tube. the piping for the pilot light nozzle are q-tip sticks again, and the pilot tip itself is a bit from my bit box, which bring us to...
random bitz! the joy of orky technology is that even if it doesn't look like it'll work/function, they believe it will, so somehow it does! i pretty much stripped down the original close combat arm for any and all useable bits - the radiator, the twin shootaz, the 2 spinny blades, more exhausts, all the pistons and cables, and all the hex-head nuts and bolts i could find. plus the bigger rivets. the little headlight at the front of the chain assembly is off one of Ben's broken motorcycle toys, and the "elbow" is from the grabba klaw from the battlewagon kit. the tank tread belt that runs the chainblade is a cheap toy from the dollar store.
and finally, the glyphs and rivets. the glyphs are just cut and trimmed bits of credit card plastic with the symbols carefully cut out of the same, with some holes, chips, and dings modelled on with an xacto blade. rivets, well those sucked. there's prolly around 100 or so on this thing. some are from various ork kits, carefully sliced off. but most are made of green stuff. i made several long and very skinny snakes of it, and once they were fully dried/hardened (several days later), i just cut very thin slices off them with my knife. gluing them on was a big pain in the ass, but what i did was put several drops of superglue around each armor plate the picked up each individual rivet with the tip of a fresh xacto blade and carefully set each onto the drops of glue. i did one plate at a time to prevent the glue from drying up before i could get to it.
tutorial ends, please feel free to ask questions i didn't cover.<
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